I made a lot of small frames, which clamped the fixture to make it stick. It consists of a base with two sliding panels secured by a key slot guide to the base.I used mostly scrap wood I had on hand, except for a few pieces of hardware. The HDPE plastic corner braces cushion the corners, and excess wood glue just peels off after glue-up. The clamping pressure is applied by two 5/16″ threaded rods run through 5/16″ inserts in the sliding panels. The 5/16″ rods are epoxied into the female knobs. Add a cotter key and washer to the inside of the end stops to give you two-way movement of the panels. I didn’t have 1″-thick HDPE plastic on hand, so I just screwed together two 1/2″-thick pieces. The notches in the corner braces are 3/4″ deep.

Framing-Jig-Project-Materials-List

I pressed the knob on the corner shop on the shop to do braces drilling and band saw. I happen to have a few 5/16 “star knobs, but these can also be done in shop. The size of this fixture is very good for my purposes but can easily be adjusted to suit individual needs.Slide panels are obtained by basically two The tight fit of the running allows them to align properly. I put the sticky wax in the running so that they will easily slide. The threaded rods are arranged to hold the clamps in place without any additional clips or stops. Two slide plates, Groove, hole, seam as shown in the drawings.

On the threaded rods, the 1/8″ hole for the cotter key is approximately 1″ in from the base of the knob. Measure the depth of the knob you’re using before mounting the rod in the knob, and drill a through hole for the pin using a V-block to hold the rod in position.

Framing-Jig-Project

I used a 5/8″ dovetail bit to cut the shaped slots in the base. The dovetailed runners are made using the same size bit on the router table with the material held vertical against the fence.  For safety, use at least a 3″-wide piece of 3/4″ maple and use a featherboard to keep the material firmly against your router fence as you make your cuts. Sneak up on the cuts for the runners until you have a snug but not too tight fit.

Framing-Jig-Project

I used a 5/8″ dovetail bit to cut the shaped slots in the base. The dovetailed runners are made using the same size bit on the router table with the material held vertical against the fence. For safety, use at least a 3″-wide piece of 3/4″ maple and use a featherboard to keep the material firmly against your router fence as you make your cuts. Sneak up on the cuts for the runners until you have a snug but not too tight fit.

Framing-Jig-Project

NOTE: To ease attachment of the runners to the sliding panels you’ll want to leave a “base” on the runners. Use a piece of carpet tape on the runners, place them in the base slots and align your sliding platforms, then press them in place. With the runners held to the sliding platforms with the tape, remove the assembly from the base, then countersink and install two screws to each runner.

 

Shop-made Knobs

 

I choose to have my own knobs in angle brackets because I want them to be narrow enough so they will not interfere with any frame component 1 “or thicker. Let me handle, I start 3 x 3 pieces of hard maple and then mark the center of the block And then drill a 1/4 “hole in the center of the hole, and then I drilled a 1/4” hole. 4 “hole in the middle of the knob. Trim off any excess band saw or any rough edge wire saw and sand. Place a small amount of epoxy 15/32 “holes in the nuts with the hexagon bolts and nuts into a tap until the hammer is fully seated until the epoxy is dry and you are ready to paint if you wish, then use the angle brackets T-bolts. Continue to do the final assembly of all the pieces, now you are ready to busy clip some frames!